Welcome to the pattern for your new favorite socks! This year I have become absolutely obsessed with sport weight yarn. Sport weight (2) is the yarn weight between fingering (1) and DK (3), but I don’t see it used much for patterns. I decided to try designing socks with it and absolutely love the fit and feel. They are slightly thicker than fingering weight socks, so they are quicker to knit. But they are thinner than DK socks so you get that nice, snug fit of a classic sock that fits in your shoe.
This sock is knitted cuff down with a heel flap and gusset. If you would like to sub in a different type of heel that you prefer, I do not mind at all!
I hope you enjoy making and wearing these socks as much as I do!
PDF COPIES
You can purchase a PDF version of this pattern to save and keep. It is also ad-free and printable. If you purchase the listing on Ravelry or Etsy, you will receive two separate PDF files – one for the adult sizes, and one for the kid sizes. I find it easier to follow a pattern when they are separate, so I hope you enjoy this feature!
READ BEFORE STARTING
The yarn you select and your tension are both crucial for making a sock that fits. While designing and testing this sock, I found that sport weight yarn varies quite a lot from brand to brand. Some is closer to fingering weight, while some is closer to DK weight. Making a gauge swatch before you begin knitting your sock is very important if you want to finish with a sock that fits. If you are new to knitting a gauge swatch, here is a simple article from Vogue Knitting that explains it well.
It is also important to use the needle size that helps you obtain the right gauge. Tension is very personal to the knitter, and if you need to use a larger size needle that is perfectly fine. The most important thing is achieving as close to 5 stitches per inch as possible so that your socks fit well.
Sewrella Classic Sport Base
My first time buying and using sport weight yarn was from Sewrella’s December Eras Club, and it was instant love! Their base is 100% superwash merino wool but it definitely has a rustic look and feel to me which is more like non superwash. I ordered January’s club on this base too because I love it so much. One 100 gram skein has 328 yards and I think it is a very true sport weight. Keep an eye out for future preorders from Sewrella, or you can order any of their seasonal tonals on this base.
Cascade Heritage 6 and Cascade Heritage 6 Hand Paints
I really enjoyed knitting with this yarn! It is surprisingly soft for a wool/nylon blend. It is 292 yards per 100 grams, but I found that the Hand Paints skein I used felt thicker than the solid color. I am thinking it might have something to do with the way they are dyed. The solid was a bit silkier feeling as well. I would still recommend both, just something to keep in mind! I think I prefer the plumpness of the hand paints version of this yarn.
You can find this yarn multiple places but I love ordering from Wool & Co. They ship insanely quick (I’m in the US) and have free shipping! I used the Pumpkin Spice colorway from the solids and Seaspray from the hand paints.
Purl Soho Daily Wool Sport
This is a 100% superwash wool yarn and it is 300 yards per 100 grams. It felt very true to sport weight but my gauge was a little tighter – more like 5.5 stitches per inch. It seems to be one of those yarns that blooms with blocking because the fit after I washed them is so lovely. I used the color Chartreuse Green for one pair, and Guinea Hen for the other. I absolutely love the look and feel of this yarn and all the colors it comes in. Purl Soho is also such a great brand to order from and they also shipped and had the yarn on my porch in less than a week!
Fingering + Lace Weight
Another combo I tried is sock yarn held with suri I had in my stash. This combo of fingering + lace makes a great sport weight fabric, and could be a great stash buster for you as well! This was my first time making socks with suri and WOW! They are as soft as a cloud and so warm too. The only con for me is how slow I knit with suri. Anyone else?
Materials
– 20-100 grams of sport (2) weight yarn. I used 52g for a size S and my foot is a size US 6.
– US Size 2 (2.75mm) needles in your choice of DPNs, Magic Loop using a 32” or longer cable, or 9” circulars. Adjust needle size as needed to obtain the right gauge.
– Stitch marker, tape measure, tapestry needle, and scissors
Gauge
Approx. 5 sts = 1 inch of stockinette. Height gauge is not needed for this pattern. I recommend wet or steam blocking your swatch for the most accurate measurement. Make sure to see yarn reccomendations above and adjust needle size if needed!
Sizes
The pattern is written for toddler (child, youth) adult S (M, L) (XL, XXL) – 5.5-6″ (6-6.5″, 6.5-7″) 8-9″ (9-10″, 10-11″) (11-12″, 12-13″)
Measure around the ball of your foot to determine size. The length is customizable.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl – slip
k2tog – knit 2 together
p2tog – purl 2 together
ssk – slip, slip, knit
BOR – beginning of round
** – repeat what is in between
Instep – front/top of the sock
Sole – back/bottom of the sock
If you are unfamiliar with any stitches or construction of the sock, I have a video series on YouTube that will help! Check it out by clicking here, or searching for my channel, kneedlesandlife, on YouTube.
Pattern
If you purchase the ad-free, printable pattern on Ravelry or Etsy, you will receive two separate PDF files – one for the adult sizes, and one for the kid sizes.
CUFF
Cast on 28 (32, 36) 40 (46, 52) (58, 64) sts. Being careful not to twist your sts, join to k in the round and place marker for BOR. If your leg circumference is larger than your foot, you may consider casting on and working the ribbing with a larger size needle.
Work in *k1, p1* ribbing until your cuff measures 1″ for kids and 1.5″ for adult.
LEG
Knit the leg in stockinette st until it measures 3″ for kids and 4″ for adult from the cast on edge. Please feel free to knit the leg longer or shorter if you want! Now you will knit the heel flap.
HEEL FLAP
K 14 (16, 18) 20 (24, 26) (30, 32) sts, then place them on hold. The other 14 (16, 18) 20 (22, 26) (28, 32) sts will be the heel flap. You will knit the heel flap flat, i.e. back and forth.
Row 1: k2, *sl 1 (p wise with yarn in back), k1* to end, turn.
Row 2: sl 1 (p wise with yarn in front), p to end, turn.
Row 3: *sl 1 (p wise with yarn in back), k1* to end, turn.
Repeat rows 2-3 until your heel flap is 8 (10, 14) 24 (26, 28) (30, 30) rows. End after a row 2. There will be 4 (5, 7) 12 (13, 14) (15, 15) sl sts along each side of the flap. Now you will turn the heel.
HEEL TURN
The right side of the heel flap should be facing you.
Row 1: sl 1 (k wise with yarn in back), k 7 (8, 9) 10 (11, 13) (14, 16), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: sl 1 (p wise with yarn in front), p 3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: sl 1 (k wise with yarn in back), k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: sl 1 (p wise with yarn in front), p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until you have worked all sts. Some sizes end with just a ssk and a p2tog on the final repeat.
PICK UP STITCHES
The right side of your work should be facing you. K across the sts left from turning the heel.
Pick up and k 4 (5, 7) 12 (13, 14) (15, 15) sts along the heel flap edge. Pick up and k one additional st in the corner to close the gap. Place a marker here for your BOR. K 14 (16, 18) 20 (24, 26) (30, 32) instep sts, place marker. Pick up and k one additional st to close the other corner gap, then pick up and k 4 (5, 7) 12 (13, 14) (15, 15) sts along the other heel flap edge. K across heel flap and down the side of the flap to the BOR.
GUSSET DECREASES
Round 1: k across instep sts, slip marker, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you are back to your original st count of 28 (32, 36) 40 (46, 52) (58, 64). Continue knitting the foot in stockinette st until the foot length measures approx. 1.5″ short of your desired length. If you are able to try on the sock, I typically knit until the top of my pinky toe.
TOE
We will now work decreases to shape the toe. Before you begin, make sure your sts are divided evenly between needles. You will decrease 4 sts every other round.
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1. slip marker. k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the BOR, k2tog, k1. (4 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you have 12 (12, 16) 16 (22, 28) (34, 40) total sts left. It’s best if you can try on the sock and make sure the toe fits how you like. Make sure your last round is a round 2 (k all).
Cut yarn, leaving a 12″ tail. Close the toe of your sock using the Kitchener Stitch.
Make one more sock exactly the same. Enjoy your new favorite socks!
This pattern and the pictures are the property of Kalley Reedy and may not be altered, shared or sold. You are welcome to sell small quantities of the finished product for a fair price, but please give credit to the designer by linking my shop or pattern in your description if selling online. Please use your own pictures as well.
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