The Wildflower Socks is a fingering weight knitting pattern that features a faux cable cuff detail and slip stitch heel flap. I love this pattern because it’s simple and classic, but also perfect for sock sets or scrap yarn you want to feature with a full skein. I love how a solid/tonal yarn looks with the cables, and then the rest of the sock is stockinette so a variegated or speckled colorway can really shine!
My socks were made with a sock set from Ruby & Roses Yarn. The colorway is from a past collection so it’s no longer available but she has lots of lovely in-stock yarn! If it’s your first order, you can use the code kneedlesandlife for $5 off.
Please enjoy the free pattern below. If you decide that you’d like to purchase a PDF version without ads to save on your device or print, you can find it on Etsy or Ravelry!
I can’t wait to see your socks!
Materials
– 100 grams of fingering weight yarn. I recommend using a wool/nylon blend sock yarn.
– Scrap fingering weight yarn in a contrasting color for the cuffs and toes.
– US Size 1 (2.25mm) needles in your choice of DPNs, Magic Loop using a 32” or longer cable, or 9” circulars.
– Stitch markers, tape measure, tapestry needle, and scissors.
Gauge
Approx. 8 sts = 1 inch of stockinette. Height gauge is not needed.
Sizes
Measure around the ball of your foot while flat to determine size. The length is customizable.
Sizes are listed in this format throughout the pattern: XS (S, M, L) and coordinate with the following sizes: 7″ (8″, 9″, 10″)
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl – slip (always purl wise with the yarn in the back unless stated otherwise)
psso – pass slipped stitch over
yo – yarn over
k2tog – knit 2 together
p2tog – purl 2 together
ssk – slip, slip, knit
BOR – beginning of round
** – repeat what is in between as directed
Instep – front/top of the sock
Sole – back/bottom of the sock
Videos
If you need help with any part of the socks, I have video tutorials on my YouTube channel for knitting your first pair of socks. Check them out here!
Pattern
Cuff
Loosely cast on 54 (60, 66, 72) sts with the contrast color yarn. Being careful not to twist your sts, join to k in the round and place marker for BOR.
Round 1: *k3, p3* repeat until end of round.
Round 2: *sl 1, k2, psso, p3* repeat until end of round.
Round 3: *k1, yo, k1, p3* repeat until end of round.
Round 4: *k3, p3* repeat until end of round.
Work Rounds 1-4 a total of 3 times (12 rounds).
Round 13: *k3, p3* repeat until end of round.
Round 14: *sl 1, k2, psso, p3* repeat until end of round.
Round 15: *k1, yo, k1, p3* repeat until end of round.
Switch to the main color yarn.
Round 16: *k1, k the yo through the back loop, k1, k3* repeat until end of round.
Leg
Continue knitting the leg in stockinette stitch until it measures 6″ (15.5cm) from the cast on edge. Continue to the heel flap.
Heel Flap
K 26 (30, 34, 36) sts, then place them on hold. The other 28 (30, 32, 36) sts will be the heel flap. You will knit the heel flap flat, i.e. back and forth.
Row 1: k2, *sl 1, k1* to end
Row 2: sl the first st (with yarn in front), p to end
Row 3: *sl 1, k 1* to end
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your flap is 28 (32, 34, 36) rows. End after a row 2. There will be 14 (16, 17, 18) sl sts along each side of the flap. Now you will work the heel turn.
Heel Turn
The right side of the heel flap should be facing you.
Row 1: sl 1, k14 (15, 16, 18), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: sl 1 (with yarn in front), p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: sl 1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: sl 1 (with yarn in front), p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have worked all sts.
Pick Up Stitches
The right side of your work should be facing you. K across the sts left from turning the heel. Then pick up and k 14 (16, 17, 18) sts along the heel flap edge. Pick up and k one additional st in the corner to close the gap. Place a marker here for your BOR. K 26 (30, 34, 36) instep sts, place marker. Pick up and k one additional st to close the other corner gap, then pick up and k 14 (16, 17, 18) sts along the other heel flap edge. K across the top of the heel turn and back down the side of the flap to the BOR.
Gusset Decreases
Round 1: k across instep sts, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you are back to your original st count of 54 (60, 66, 72).
Continue knitting the foot in stockinette st until the foot length measures approx. 1.5-2″ short of your desired length. I have attached a foot length chart I use on the last page if you’re knitting for someone else or can’t try on your sock. If you can try on the sock, I recommend stopping when the foot reaches the top of your pinky toe.
Break yarn. K one round with the contrast color. Then continue to the toe.
Toe
Work the following decreases to shape the toe. If you are knitting with 9″ circulars, you will want to switch to magic loop or dpns for this part.
Divide stitches evenly in half so you have the same number on the front and back needle before starting the decreases.
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1. slip marker. k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the BOR, k2tog, k1. (4 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you have 26 (28, 30, 32) sts left. It’s best if you can try on the sock and make sure the toe fits how you like. Make sure your last round is a round 2 (k all).
Cut yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew up the top. Close the toe of your sock using the Kitchener Stitch. Click here for a video tutorial.
Make one more sock exactly the same. Wet block if you want, then enjoy your new pair of socks! For tips on how to wet block your socks, click here.
As always, very interesting and informative. Step by step! 🙂