When designing the Vanilla Bobble Socks, I wanted a basic (vanilla) sock but with a little extra fun! I added tiny bobbles to the cuff and a Peasant Heel that is subtle but pretty. I hope you love knitting these socks as much as I do! And I hope you’ll knit a tiny pair, too!
Share your knitting
If you make a pair of socks from my pattern, I would LOVE to see them. Please post a picture on Instagram and tag me @kneedlesandlife or use the hashtag #vanillabobblesocks.
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
bob – bobble (see notes on next page)
sl – slip (always purl wise with the yarn in the back unless stated otherwise)
k2tog – knit 2 together
p2tog – purl 2 together
ssk – slip, slip, knit
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
BOR – beginning of round
** – repeat what is in between
Instep – front/top of the sock
Sole – back/bottom of the sock
If you are unfamiliar with any stitches or construction of the sock, I highly recommend searching for them on YouTube!
Approx. 20-100 grams of fingering weight yarn depending on the size you knit. I recommend using a wool/nylon blend sock yarn. I used a hank that came in my Knitcrate subscription for the yellow pair, but I used KnitPicks Stroll in the color Pucker for the pink pair. This is a great sock yarn that is also very affordable! You can find it here.
US Size 1 (2.25mm) needles in your choice of DPNs, Magic Loop using a 32” or longer cable, or 9” circulars for larger adult sizes.
Stitch markers, tape measure, tapestry needle, and scissors
Approx. 9 sts = 1 inch of stockinette. Height gauge is not needed.
Measure around the ball of your foot to determine size. The length is customizable.
The pattern is written for:
Baby/Youth shoe sizes 0-4 (5-9, 10-13, 1-3) / 4.5 (5.5, 6, 6.5)” circumference
Adult sizes (4-6.5, 7-9.5, 10-12.5) / (7, 8, 9)” circumference
The adult sizes will be in bold throughout the pattern.
Vanilla Bobble Socks Pattern
To purchase an ad-free PDF for $3, click here!
To work the bobble stitch for this pattern, knit through the front loop, back loop, and front loop again in the same stitch, creating 3 stitches out of one. Turn your work to the back to purl. Slip the first stitch purl wise with the yarn in the front. Then purl the next 2 stitches. Turn your work back to the front to knit those same stitches again. Slip the first stitch knit wise with the yarn in the back. Knit the next 2 stitches together. Then slip the first stitch over the second. You are now back to one stitch. I have recorded a video showing the bobble and the row after that you may find helpful – watch below!
Adult sizes are in bold.
Cast on 36 (44, 48, 52) (56, 64, 72) sts. Join to k in the round and pm.
*k1, p1* for .5 (.5, 1, 1.5) (1.5, 1.5, 2) inches.
K 2 rounds of stockinette st before working the bobble round below.
BOBBLE ROUND: k2, bob, *k3, bob* until there is 1 st left. k the last st.
NEXT ROUND: k until bob st, pick up the bar between the sts from back to front with the left needle and k2tog with the bob st to close the gap. Keep doing this for the entire round. Go back and watch the bobble video if you need help with this part.
Now continue knitting the leg in stockinette st until it measures 2.5 (3.5, 4.5, 5.5) (6, 6, 6.5) inches from the cast on. Now you will knit the heel flap.
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half of your sts. The rest of your sts will be on hold. Sl sts on the right side are p wise with the yarn in back. Sl sts on the wrong side are p wise with the yarn in front.
This heel is commonly known as a Peasant Heel.
The following rows are worked on the first 18 (22, 24, 26) (28, 32, 36) sts of your sock.
Row 1 (RS): *sl1, k1* to end of row. turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p the rest of the sts. turn work.
Row 3 (RS): sl1, *sl1, k1* until 1 st is left, k the last st. turn work.
Row 4 (WS): sl1, p the rest of the sts. turn work.
Repeat rows 1-4 until your flap is 14 (18, 20, 24) (28, 32, 36) rows tall. There will be 7 (9, 10, 12) (14, 16, 18) sl sts on the sides. It doesn’t matter if you end after a row 2 or 4.
The right side of the heel flap should be facing you.
Row 1: sl 1, k 8 (11, 12, 13) (14, 16, 18), ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl 1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl 1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 4: sl 1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have worked all the sts.
PICK UP STITCHES
The right side of your work should be facing you. K across the sts left from turning the heel. Then pick up and k 7 (9, 10, 12) (14, 16, 18) sts along the heel flap edge. Pick up and k one additional st in the corner to close the gap. Place a marker here for your BOR. K the 18 (22, 24, 26) (28, 32, 36) instep sts, pm. Pick up and k one additional st to close the other corner gap, then pick up and k 7 (9, 10, 12) (14, 16, 18) sts along the other side of the heel flap. K across the top of the heel flap and down the side to the BOR.
Now proceed to the gusset decreases.
Round 1: k across instep sts, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you are back to your original st count of 36 (44, 48, 52) (56, 64, 72). Continue knitting the foot in stockinette st until the foot length measures approx. 1.5″ short of your desired length. If you are able to try your socks on, this is approximately the tip of your smallest toe.
Work the following decreases to shape the toe. If you are knitting with 9″ circulars, you will want to switch to magic loop or dpns for this part. There should be a marker for the BOR and a marker between the instep and sole.
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1. slip marker. k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the BOR, k2tog, k1. (4 sts decreased)
Round 2: k all sts. (no decreases)
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you have 12 (16, 20, 24) (24, 28, 32) sts left. It’s best if you can try on the sock and make sure the toe fits how you like. Make sure your last round is a round 2 (k all).
Cut yarn, leaving a 12″ tail. Close the toe of your sock using the Kitchener Stitch. I found this video very helpful the first few times I knitted socks.
Make one more sock exactly the same. You can wet block or steam your socks. I have even ironed mine before – just make sure they are wool (nylon is fine too). Here’s a post on my blog to help you wet block if it’s your first time.
Tip for kids socks!
Add a fun design on the soles with puffy paint to make them grippy. It’s best if you apply the puffy paint pretty thick.